Day 11: Classy, Gritty Naples
Vedi Napoli e poi muori! (See Naples and die!) Some people use this saying as a joke about the danger of going to Naples, but after this tour I truly appreciate the beauty and history of this misunderstood city and the original meaning of the phrase: you can die happy after seeing Naples and its splendor. Naples used to be one of the richest cities in Italy, but after the unification of Italy, most of their wealth traveled north to the new king of Italy, leaving the city with empty pockets. Because of the industrialization of northern Italy and the resources poured into its development, most of southern Italy remained largely agricultural and neglected - particularly Naples.
Just a short drive north of Sorrento, we first stopped at the Capodimonte Museum for a tour of its artwork. We met our local guide, Pina, at the museum where she showed us many of its treasures, including several exquisite Caravaggio's. The Capodimonte itself is also an exhibit since it was originally constructed as the "small" hunting lodge of King Charles VII of Naples.
Just a short drive north of Sorrento, we first stopped at the Capodimonte Museum for a tour of its artwork. We met our local guide, Pina, at the museum where she showed us many of its treasures, including several exquisite Caravaggio's. The Capodimonte itself is also an exhibit since it was originally constructed as the "small" hunting lodge of King Charles VII of Naples.
After our trip to the museum, we loaded back onto Salvatore's bus for one last trip to our hotel in central Naples, where we said goodbye to the best driver in Italy! Patricia helped us all check in and find our rooms, then took us out on a quick orientation to central Naples with ideas for our free time the following day. Tour guide extraordinaire Patricia also organized a group pizza tasting/dinner that evening so we could try some of Naples' best pizzas. Our second walking tour on the way to the pizzeria took us through Via San Gregorio Armeno - famous for its presepe
(nativity scenes). Italian tradition is to build an elaborate nativity scene, adding a piece every year from a Naples shop. But you don't need to just fill your nativity scene with "boring" traditional figures - Berlusconi, Prince Harry, and others pop culture figurines are also available!
(nativity scenes). Italian tradition is to build an elaborate nativity scene, adding a piece every year from a Naples shop. But you don't need to just fill your nativity scene with "boring" traditional figures - Berlusconi, Prince Harry, and others pop culture figurines are also available!
Day 12: Exploring Naples
One thing you may not know about Naples: it has one of the most beautiful metro stations in the world. Toledo station right outside our hotel won an international subway station award in 2013 that is well-deserved! Like Rome, Naples is also full of layers, both old and new. While the Toledo station starts at street-level where you can see some ancient Roman ruins of Neapolis, the train tracks run several levels below because the engineers had to dig so deep to avoid former structures.
Patricia helped us all navigate our way on the metro to the Cappella Sansevero where we met Pina again for a tour of the church, especially the veiled Christ sculpture inside (sorry, no photos allowed!). Afterwards, we headed off to the National Archaeological Museum of Naples for a tour of some of its treasures, many of which came from Pompeii.
Patricia helped us all navigate our way on the metro to the Cappella Sansevero where we met Pina again for a tour of the church, especially the veiled Christ sculpture inside (sorry, no photos allowed!). Afterwards, we headed off to the National Archaeological Museum of Naples for a tour of some of its treasures, many of which came from Pompeii.
At this point in the tour, I really sympathized with how Hercules must have felt after completing his 12 labors. Or like this poor fellow back in Rome's Capitoline Museum (who is supposed to show us the incredible size of the Temple of Jupiter, but fell over years ago, according to Francesca). I was all museum-ed out!
Pro Tip #14: |
Luckily, for those of us who were museum-ed out and didn't want to explore the archaeological museum further on our own, Patricia organized a group excursion to the Vomero quarter via funicular. Many Neopolitans live in the Vomero, so it has a very authentic feel and, because it's elevated above the city, it also has some spectatcular views of Naples. Finally, at the Belvedere di San Martino, Vesuvius decided to make an appearance on our last day! We also found the best pizza of our trip in the Vomero at Tie', Il Sarto della Pizza, where you can enjoy pizza made by a true master (or tailor, as their name suggests)!
Our post-lunch plan was to take the funicular down to the Chiaia area, walk through the park and along the coast, and find our way back to Via Toledo. Sadly, it didn't quite go to plan! We did make it to Chiaia, just in time for some unexpected storms to start up (and continue for the next hour or two). We also couldn't find an open entrance to the park, so we were stuck walking along the street and ducking into entryways when the rain got too bad. The storm limited our gorgeous ocean views, too! We forged on for a bit, but...
Pro Tip #15: |
After my mishap, Linda and I headed back to the hotel (stopping for a medicinal gelato, of course) to dry out before our final group dinner that evening. Our final group gathering took place at Locanda del Cerriglio, formerly a bar where Caravaggio used to hang out when in Naples. Dinner was delicious, but it was so sad saying goodbye to my new friends, most of whom had early flights the next morning and left before daylight!
Day 13: Arrivederci (but not quite)!
The last day of the tour just included breakfast. For those who left before breakfast time, Patricia organized carry-out boxes for the taxi ride or airport; anyone who stayed for breakfast left sometime that day for their other planned activities. With my flight leaving from Rome, Patricia helped me book my train ride from Naples to Rome several days earlier (book early for a good deal!), so all I had left to do was pack up and catch the metro to the Napoli Centrale train station. To read more about my extra days in Rome post trip, click below to go to "Extras!"
Pictured in header: Naples from Vomero outlook